Excerpts from a Travelogue - Part V
- brsc70
- Dec 15, 2025
- 6 min read
Part V - Italy
What does one do in Rome? You walk a lot. You marvel at antiquity and what’s been preserved from hundreds of years before Christ. You ponder the time spent here by Apostles Peter and Paul and wonder what life was really like back then. You think about Caesar and the Popes and the blood of martyrs. There are visible vestiges and physical remnants of a city so spectacular that it defies imagination. Buildings that in their day were much more appealing and magnificent than anything built in cities today, in my humble opinion, notwithstanding modern skyscrapers that are magnificent in their own right.
We found our Airbnb first, outside the city, towards the airport, and got settled in. We then drove to the old city and parked. Thus began our walk among the ruins of the past, through narrow streets, some crowded beyond word, some totally deserted and quiet.
We marveled at the Pantheon, still entirely intact, massive, built in 27 BC, or thereabouts, during the reign of Augustus. The square where it is located was absolutely packed with people, and I feared for my wife and daughter’s lives—that is, I was worried if we got separated, we would never meet again. They would find work in Rome, probably ultimately find happiness, and maybe someday I would get a postcard. I shuddered and shook off the premonitions and held on to them both as we zigzagged our way through, shoulder to shoulder with the madding crowd.
Trevi Fountain. Beautiful, impressive, worth a look but again, packed with people. Everywhere you go nowadays you meet the Instagram crowd, fighting for that perfect picture at some highly regarded spot. What was noteworthy is that one short block over from the Trevi, the streets were almost deserted. (Lessons learned so far: bring euros for the loo, remember that some roads end at ferry docks, and that when in Rome the road less traveled is the road less crowded - uhm, that seems obvious, but there's gotta be a lesson there somewhere).
We ended up walking the Forum at night, which was a treat. Everything lit up, fewer tourists, the shadows holding the ghosts of the Empire, whispers of grandeur, echoes of power, prestige, pomp.
The next morning, we hit the road once again, on foot, after finding a parking spot a few kilometers away from our destination. This time, the Catacombs of Domitian via a coffee shop stop where we took our time over tasty pastries and lovely lattes.
The catacombs were another highlight, guided tour only, down beneath an old basilica. We followed our guide down lighted passageways, going deeper underground, turning here and turning there, wondering what it would be like to be abandoned here with no map. There are many levels, and the passageways go for miles. We should note that the Catacombs of Domitia are only one catacomb complex of many in Rome, all in total comprising many miles of underground, multi-leveled chambers.
The interesting part to us was that even though Christians were buried here they did not use the catacombs to hide during persecution. They did hold services down there in the early years after Christ, but mostly because their families were buried here. This information came via our guide, who continued to stress that the stories of Christians hiding out in the catacombs was pure myth. We wonder.
In one tomb of a wealthier Christian there were ancient mosaics, still visible, that depicted the sign of the fish and two figures representing Peter and Paul. No sign of the cross - that came later once the Catholic church became established around 300 AD. At the time these mosaics were painted, the cross was still only a symbol of death and dishonor.
After our tour was completed, we made the 10-minute walk from the Catacombs to the Appian Way, or Via Appia Antica. This ancient highway was built by the Romans in 312 BC and runs approximately 400 miles. This was a bucket list item for both Mike and I, to walk the same road walked by the Apostle Paul, when he was brought to Rome. Many sections of the road have the original stones, and one cannot exactly imagine riding a chariot or wagon over it; although I am sure it was smooth back then—apparently those Romans knew how to build roads to last. (I catch myself mulling over the constant construction in my state, where the roads and bridges apparently must be redone every few years. Then my mind wanders and I think of what an ancient Roman flagman must have looked like ... helmet and sword [because you never know when the barbarian Gauls will attack], but holding an orange sign that says "Quaeso, constructionem in progressu tarda").
The ancient way is lined with the ruins of tombs, catacombs, villas, monuments, and statues, all from the time of the Roman Empire. It makes for a fascinating and thoughtful walk down one of history's most storied roads.
Next up on our Roman tour was the Colosseum, the largest amphitheater in the Roman Empire, and now a massive ruin dominating the center of Rome and the ancient Forum. It was full, which is to be expected, and impressive, also to be expected. We’ve read about this edifice most of our lives in connection with Christian martyrs versus the lions, gladiatorial combat, and the blood lust of the Roman throngs. It is a reflective experience walking the elliptical outer levels, looking down into the open ‘basement’ where the Christians, the lions, the gladiators, would have been kept before appearing on the main stage for the events of the day.
As I walked and took it all in, here in 2025, over 2000 years later, I ponder many things. Did the Christians feel an overwhelming sense of dread in the pit of their stomachs at the thought of lions, or a certain joy at the thought of escaping the mad world they had been born into (for such a time) and finally being at rest, finally meeting their Savior, finally no more hiding, no more running, no more chains? Maybe both... dread and joy. Fear and anticipation. Weakness and strength.
It all defies the modern imagination, and one shies away from the close cutting questions that come: how would I stand up to the test?
The main structure of the Colosseum was built between 70 and 80 AD, started by Vespasian and completed by Titus. This time is right around the fall of Jerusalem, which is difficult to fathom. Rome destroying one city, enriching another.
We ended the day with another ride around the city on the Hop-On Hop-Off bus and ended up almost wearing out our sneakers. We got off at the Vatican stop, walked into Vatican City, saw the grand seat of the Holy Papacy from a distance. Impressive? Yes. Did we see all there was to see? No. We left the Sistine Chapel and the largest church on earth for next time. But we did take time for an espresso, of course. One ponders, again, this idea of priorities. The Pope? Nope. Coffee? Yes, please. With cream.
We then disembarked at the Terminii Station, where time caught up with us, the buses stopped for the night, and we discovered ourselves ravenous. Turns out Terminii had us covered—a large food market with dozens of mouthwatering options. What to have, what to have? We came, we sampled, we savored. Then we had a long walk back to our parking garage. Beware that the bus stops at 7:30 and you will then walk back to wherever you parked the car. Overall, it was a nice walk on a beautiful night, through some sketchy parts, some lovely parts, until suddenly we turned the corner and there it was in all its splendor: the Colosseum, glowing in a thousand lights.
And that’s where it ended. Almost 3 weeks, 4200 miles, 11 countries, countless pizzas, pastries, and coffees. A lifetime of memories. We said goodbye to Mikes the next morning as we dropped them off at the airport and went for a final coffee fling at a nearby pâtisserie along the sea. Then it was our turn – return the car to friendly and helpful people near the airport, shuttle bus to FCO and final boarding for Iceland. That’s right, not home yet. We have Iceland to explore. Up next.
Part VI coming soon.
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